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Retrieve - Gloves
Here is a helpful web site. 30 clicker steps to db retrieve.

Retrieve

I teach a non force retrieve. This will work with dogs that are natural retrievers or dogs that only like food. I do use food as the main primary reinforcement. The steps to building a nice fast RELIABLE retrieve are a building block of things you have learned and develop your skills in operand conditioning.

First step - Work on mouth tolerance. Mouth tolerance is where the dog does not shy away or worry when I touch their mouth. I work this at the dog's level. Here is an example of steps I go through with the dog but I do not move on if the dog is showing any signs of shyness.

• · Touch the dogs chin "Event Marker" "Treat".
• · Touch the dogs' lips "Event Marker" "Treat".
• · Raise the dog's lip "Event Marker" "Treat".
• · Finger in their mouth "Event Marker" "Treat".
• · Slowly able to open the mouth with two fingers on one hand "Event Marker" "Treat".
• · You can go as far as opening to look in with no resistance "Event Marker" "Treat".
• · Putting a treat in their mouth (they do not eat it) "Event Marker" "Treat".

Second step -Have a well fitting dumbbell for your dog. Dumbbells can be purchased at most dog shows and you would have an opportunity to fit your dog to the db. Try to make the fitting process a positive one by having lots of food to reward for letting you put this thing in their mouth. If you have done the mouth tolerance this process should be easier. You want the bar of the dumbbell to be comfort able for the dog to close their mouth. I usually like a small bar. You want the length of the bar wide enough that there is room for the dogs mouth even if the side lip is curled up. The bells of the dumbbell should be at a height that is easy for the dog to pick up off the floor without bumping their chin.

Third step - Have food and db (Dumbbell) . The steps with each dog will very. If you have done db work before you will need to start at positive association with the db. I will go through the steps to teach the db.

• · Present the db - dog looks at it "Event Marker" "Treat".
• · Present the db - this time wait till the dog touches it with their nose "Event Marker" "Treat".
• · If the dog is having a hard time you can place the food close to the db to get them looking at the db "Event Marker" "Treat".
• · Timing is everything teaching the db. Need to be sure you are rewarding for the db in the dogs mouth. Timing is that you give the "Event marker " while db is in the mouth.
• · The dog is looking at the db happily, willing to touch the db now we want the dog to open mouth and put it around the db. We do not care if he holds it we just want the mouth to cover the bar "Event Marker" "Treat". Best way to give treat is when the bar is in their mouth and throw it in for the reward.
• · Now we would like to get more behavior - to get more behavior you need to become variable and unpredictable. You will not always give the dog treat for the action but you will "Mark" them so they know they are on the right track. This is how you will get more behavior.
• · Work this stage with distraction - food in one hand db in other, toys, people, high reach, low reach to the ground, behind your back, standing and sitting.
• · Reminder be variable and unpredictable because now we are going to ask for more behavior. We want the dog to actually HOLD it. This is a waiting game looking for the dog to offer more behavior. I watch for the moment the hold their mouth on db even for a second "Event Marker" "Treat". I get really excited and usually quite that session and try again later. If the dog tries to cover and do things I will let the dog know that they are on the right track. A big party if they hold even for a second.
• · The dog will begin to understand that you get really excited over something and now they have to associate it with the hold. Be patient and ignore all behavior you do not like and reward the dog for correct work. Add the cue word once the dog understands that the db is something they should reach for and get. I use "Fetch".
• · Once the dog is holding the db. You will need to build the amount of time the dog will hold. You should count so you can keep track how long you are working. One time do 1 "Event Marker" "Treat". Then 3 second do "Event Marker" "Treat". Back to one. Just be variable and unpredictable till you have a hold.
• · Add distractions like before.
• · Dog needs to walk, run and learn to jump with db in their mouth.
• · Dog reaches the db with your outreached hand and turns back to you to present the db. Can be a hard step but be patient and the dog will figure it out.
• · Place the db on the floor and leave your hand on the db and say "Fetch" when the dog's mouth is on the db "Event Mark" and treat when he has presented the db. This can be hard concept for dogs to get the db off the floor and moving your hand off the db. So go slowly moving your hand farther and farther away.
• · Once the dog is fetching right in front of you time to start throwing it.
• · The final exercise the dog needs a "Sit" "Wait" Handler throws the db. "Fetch" Dog runs out and back with the db. Front and Finish.

Step 4 - Distractions - Need to take this exercise everywhere and get the dog use to all distractions. If the dog becomes distracted. Handler runs get the db and eat cookies and make a big deal you got everything. If you have a helper it is a big effect if they go out get the db and all the dogs wonderful cookies. You will find the dog realize that he will not get reinforcement unless he brings the db back.

Step 5 - Practice Throwing the db. This is the handler's responsibility. I set up so I have to land the db in a certain spot. I practice straight and long. If I throw a crooked db I will walk out and get it my self and re-throw. My throwing seems to improve the more I walk out.

Gloves

Step 1 - I show the dog a glove and go through all of the above steps. I tie a string around the glove so it is rigid and easier for the dog to grab.

Step 2 - I start showing my "Mark" signal to the dogs at a very young age. I want the dogs to like this exercise and learn to go away from me and come back. I have a cookie in my left hand (invisible). I hold the dog with my right hand so that he does not have to wait (I want them excited so I hold them so they really want to go do the exercise). I use my left hand to point to the ground straight ahead. I drop the cookie out of the hand "Mark" then "Fetch" and release the dog to the cookie. Then "come" and treat.

• · Building this exercise I will throw the food up to 6 or 7 feet.
• · Turn my hand and point left and right to get the treat.
• · Then I do a blind (invisible - not thrown cookie) retrieve. I place the food out at the same distance I have been sending him. When the dog goes in the right direction and gets the food "Event Marker" "Treat".
• · If you are working on retrieving and the dog holds and carry’s and fetch we can go with the glove exercise.
• · While I am teaching this I will be working on my Go Outs. In the GO out exercise you what to have your gloves, toys etc laying around so the dog will learn to go straight even if their are distractions. This will be proofing on Go Outs later. If you do it early before the dog retrieves a glove they will think it is no big deal.

Step 3 - I will set glove 1 and 3 out so that it is easy for the dog. I will mark them hang on to their collar and walk to the glove release the dog when I am sure they are going to take the correct glove. I want the dog to drop their head when my hand drops and look where I am pointing. I will send the dog for the glove "Fetch" when the dog has their mouth on the glove "Event Marker" "Treat" and come and Treat on the return and presentation.

Step 4 - Add the 2 glove after the dog understands to run out to 1 and 3. I usually have bigger more powerful reward on 1 and 3. Dogs like number to so I usually have lower level food and level of praise. I start back at step 3 showing them the 3 gloves and build back up. If the dog happens to the wrong glove I run to the right glove and give myself all the wonderful cookies and ignore the dog till the get the right glove. I really watch where the dog is looking before I send them. If they are not looking straight at the right glove I walk to the right glove making sure they see the correct picture. If the dog looks at the wrong glove I will raise my mark hand back to heel position and then remark to the glove (see step 5).

Step 5 - I practice Marking a glove and then standing straight up. I want the dog to give me attention if I stand up and bring my hand up. I practice this outside the glove exercise till they understand what I call the remark.

Step 6 - Pivots are put into the exercise and practice all the gloves.

Step 7 - Proofing with distraction like the retrieve. Usually they all ready understand the must get a glove from the retrieve.

Step 8 - Blind Gloves - All gloves invisible. Go back to helping if you need to. I do not do this step with all dogs unless they are having a problem understanding the directions. If everything is going well I would not go on with this step.

• · 1 and 3 visible 2 invisible send dog to 2.
• · 2 visible and 1 and 3 invisible send the dog to 1 or 3.
• · Work this variable I will also work with gloves in a circle around me and the dog and pivot and send the dog for different gloves.
• · Take the exercise on the road.

copyrighted Jan Wesen 6/15/99

Thanks to all that made it all possible - Dale Gordon, Dawn Jecs, Patty Ruzzo.