Jumping/Heeling - Directed Jumping/Open

Thanks to all that made it all possible - Dale Gordan, Dawn Jecs, Patty Ruzzo.

Jumping
The Clothier Natural Jumping Method - Suzanne Clothier
Flying Dog Press 1-800-7-fly-dog
Jumping from A to Z by M. Christine Zink DVM
Canine Athletic by M. Christine Zink DVM
Canine Sports Productions
1810A York Rd #360
Luthervill, MD 21093
410-561-1555
$19.95
These are two outstanding books. They are inexpensive highly recommend reading them to increase your dogs performance ability.

My main points on jumping:
· Dogs under one year of age should not jump higher then elbow height.
· You should condition your dog for performance events.
· Dogs over a year old when you are increasing jump height no more then one inch at a time.
· Any time you see signs of unsure jumping style you should back up. Look for ears, body posture, poor jumping style.
· I introduce jumps laying on the ground and walk with the dog over the jumps. I walk up to the jump on leash. Step over with the leg on the side of the dog and say "jump" reinforce the dog on the other side of the jump.
· After the dog is going over ground poles and short jumps I work on one jump. I stand over the jump with a leg on each side. I am actually standing inside the stations of the jump. I have the dog wait. I have the dog walk up and eat a cookie off the jump and encourage them to jump. Then I set the dog up for the them jump and when they dog is at full height (arc of their jump) "yes" and throw the treat. Then I call the dog back over the jump and say "jump" "Event Marker " at the height of the jump and throw treat.
· I spend time conditioning and having the dog jump comfortable in on locations in all environments.

Heeling
Heeling is a very big topic and I am only touching on it in my writings. I would like to address the "Lets Go" this is what I use between exercises in the ring. I use the "Lets GO" to give the dog an opportunity to look around if needed, talk to the dog and interact, and try to relieve any stress they may have in the ring environment. I think it is very important to practice this as an exercise the dog is complete comfortable walking with you and lining up with you.

The dog that will follow the touch hand will be in a perfect place to learn this exercise. If the dog is still learning the touch and follow the hand we will work with what the dog knows. I will work the touch exercise till the dog will easily follow your hand then you "Event Marker" "Treat".
If you need to have the dog follow food as a lure this will work but remember the dog is not learning so you will have to start at the first steps with your touch hand.

Food as the Primary Reinforcement is an easy way to show the dogs how to do things, however the dog isn’t learning mentally. They will learn some muscle memorization and how to physical make the move but we need to get to learning. We need a Secondary Reinforce to show a dog how to do an exercise without food and something they still like to participate in. The touch is a perfect tool, the touch your hand will become very self reinforcing to the dog and they will learn muscle control and mental control.

Lets Go
· Always turn to left when doing a "Lets Go".
· Stay with your dog. If they are having a hard time I wait till they come up to me then "Event Marker" "Treat". I just wait for them to come up. If they are very distracted and I have a helper I would leave the room - always make sure the dog is safe if you do this.
· When I am preparing to stop on a spot I will say "Sit" and then stop so that the dog can get straight with me. If they are young puppies I will get straight with them and work on the sit next time.
· You should walk around with your dog confidently and easily and be able to go into a sit. You should be comfortable moving up and inch , back and inch or relining up.
· If you like to pet your dog and your dog isn’t sure that petting is apart of working I spend time pairing food and petting. In obedience competition between exercise is when you can pet and interact with your dog make sure that your interaction is something the dog likes. i.e. - kiss, pet, scratch, smile.
· Smile - We always want to have a nice happy smile on our faces to make the dog happy relaxed.
· Distraction - I want to take the "Lets Go" everywhere fun matches, shopping malls, schools and training situations. When the dog and you are very comfortable walking around I will begin to have you work with food off your body placed in and around the training environment. You will begin to show the dog that food will come and how to get it. Nice attention and happy work will get him food from somewhere or some one.

Directed Jumping
This is for the Utility class, the 3rd level of competition obedience. The dog to start this exercise must be comfortable with jumping. It doesn’t have to be high jump but they must understand going over a jump.
· Step 1 - I set up a bar and high jump close together ( 6 feet apart). I will sit the dog in front of one of the jumps. I will stand between the 2 jumps right next to the jumps. I will focus on the dog with food in the hand I will send the dog by pointing my hand to the jump and say "jump" when the dog is going over the jump "Event Marker" "Treat". You may run and reward the dog. Do this over both jumps.
· Step 2 - Building angle jumping. The dog needs to go to the center of the two jumps (right in front of you) and you are going to send your dog to each of the jumps as we did above. If the dog ever comes straight to you run to the jump and help the dog over that jump.
· Step 3 - Start to spread the jumps apart till they are 26 feet apart. Work all of the above exercise.
· Step 4 - Begin to back up so you and the dog are at opposite ends of the ring.
Retrieve over the High
The retrieve over the high is in Open class, the 2nd level of competition obedience. The dog will work on similar jumping as above in Directed Jumping. You want the dog to learn to jump from every angle put you are always in the center of jump 8 feet back. The dog should learn all angles to come over the jump.
· The dog will allot learn to do all angles with dumbbell (db) in their mouth.
· The dog needs to be comfortable jumping over the jump with db in their mouth to go on.
· I start with dog sitting next to me holding the collar and throwing the db over the jump I say "Hup" release the dog and when they get to the db "Fetch" then I repeat "Hup" . "Event Marker" should be varied on all part s of this exercise and the treat would be given on the presentation of the db.
· Practice away from the jump the dog sitting and you placing the db in front and behind him and tell him to fetch.
· Set the dog on one side of the jump and place the db behind the dog and say "Fetch" then "hup". This is to show the dog how to turn and make the jump with out doing the whole exercise. I do this with the dog at all angles.
· I will take this exercise on the road to make sure the dog is comfortable. If the dog doesn’t retrieve I just grab the db and eat all the treats. If the dog starts to go around the jump I will get closer and back up some steps.
· If your dog isn't retrieving you can to the "Eat over the High Jump". Do the formal exercise. If you need a helper to make sure the dog doesn't get up only do it with a helper. Tell the dog to "Wait", throw the visible food, if dog is waiting use your retrieve word "Hup" "Fetch" then I say the dogs name and "Hup", work the front and the finish so you have it when the dog is actually retrieving the db.
Broad Jumping
This is an exercise in Open class, the 2nd level of competition obedience. Need to read the rule book on the number of jumps that you will need to use. This exercises seems silly to all but we have fun with it.
· Get the dog comfortable going over the jump. I call these run byes.
· When the dog has a wait and an understanding of jumping and you have done allot of run byes you can go on.
· I stand in front of the boards and call my dog over the jump and turn and run with the dog. This will be a straight jump for the dog but I will be standing sideways. I do this till the dog is comfortable. You may also throw a cookie after the dog is in the air.
· I will slowly move to the point next to the jumps that you need to be in the ring. I will vary the reinforcement to the dog by throwing the cookie, running and giving the cookie or doing and under to get the cookie. All things are done when the dog is in the air.
· I show the dog the turn from the jumps into a front position. This is a little stationary exercise that I show the dogs but I don’t spend allot of time drilling.
Making the exercise more formal I will vary when the dog gets the reinforcement but I am constantly watching for straight jumping and the dog not anticipation the turn.